What are the parts of a wave? Surfing wouldn’t be a sport without waves. Without waves, surfers wouldn’t be able to walk on water. Let’s take a look at the different components that make a wave… a wave. There are several things we know about waves. We understand – probably since we were children – that […]
Kenneth B. Liberman, Professor Emeritus of Sociology at the University of Oregon, has studied and analyzed the relationships between surfers, the rules of wave riding, and the moral values found in the surf. “Turn-Taking in the Surfers’ Lineup” is one of the most relevant contributions to the knowledge of wave scarcity, surf etiquette, and the corresponding […]
The breaking of waves is studied by fluid dynamics, a sub-discipline of physics that studies the science behind liquids and gases. Scientists have concluded that waves break when their amplitude reaches a critical level that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy, like a ball rolling down the hill. […]