“I’ve been waiting all my life for this swell,” says professional big wave surfer Nic von Rupp about 2020’s late October storm. Hurricane Epsilon merged with a low-pressure system near Greenland, generating an unprecedented XXL swell in the North Atlantic. The combination of the two systems, together with the mechanics of the Nazaré Canyon, created the perfect conditions for some […]
Here we go again. November 5, 2019, marks the first big swell of the winter season in Nazaré, Portugal. Conditions weren’t perfect, but that’s what defines this place and these waves. Nazaré is a product of Mother Nature’s authenticity and rawness. Portuguese filmmaker Luís Coelho captured the power of Praia do Norte from different yet, […]
Surf spots – the place where dreams come true. And yes, magnificent surf breaks do exist. Everyone has their favorites peaks, but sometimes – or maybe often – it’s just better somewhere else. That’s why surfers are travelers. They’re in constant search for the ultimate wave, the secret spot. Perfection is the goal; pure joy […]
Australian big wave surfer Ross Clarke-Jones nearly drowned in Nazaré, Portugal. There is a golden rule at Praia do Norte that says: “Never go right.” The 51-year-old surfer from Sydney has been a regular face at the Portuguese surf break. But, this time, he didn’t even need a huge wave to live a terrifying moment.
Today, Nazaré is one of the most popular big wave surf breaks on the planet. Every year, the quiet fishing village attracts hundreds of multinational athletes and thousands of tourists from all over the world, who seek to ride and witness the power of Nature. Whenever a wave breaks near the iconic Nazaré cliff, you […]
Surfing is a sport that works like a therapy against the demons that sometimes take advantage of our brains. And, although it may not cure you, it will put a smile on your face. We all know that a lifestyle surrounded by the sea brings a lot of positive benefits to our health. It has […]
Relationships, work, health, relocations, aging, or even desire can keep you out of the surf, but there’s not one valid reason for one to give up on surfing. “He who is tired of surfing is tired of life.” The original quote had London instead of surfing, but the adaptation fits in perfectly. People go through […]
A beautiful chaos, the ultimate surfing wave, a freak of nature, the advanced surfer’s testing ground, a specialty wave, the premier tube riding arena, and, ultimately, the Mecca of surfing. A lot has been said and written about Banzai Pipeline. The steep, fast Hawaiian barreling wave breaks almost all year round on the North Shore […]
Surfing is a territorial activity that often triggers irrational behaviors. Let’s take a look at the meaning of spiritual, home, and local surf spots. Localism is a philosophical concept that is always present in the minds and actions of those who engage in surfing. The surf industry continues to pictures the surfers and their dreams […]
Teahupoo is one of the heaviest and most powerful waves in the world and, as its etymology shows, the place is a do-or-die surfing arena. Located at the southwest tip of Tahiti, in French Polynesia, Teahupoo is the typical Pacific freak of nature. The hollow and thunderous surf spot breaks approximately 500 yards offshore in […]