Wetsuits are made of foamed neoprene, and they provide thermal protection against hypothermia. Let’s take a look at how these second skins are made. The wetsuit was invented in 1952 by Hugh Bradner, a physicist from the University of California, Berkeley. He wanted to help US Navy divers feel more comfortable underwater. He realized that […]
Surfboards are complex hydrodynamic objects. They are made for riding waves and traditionally range from 5-to-13 feet, depending on whether they’re shortboards or longboards and guns. Because there are multiple forces acting on them, surfboards have different shapes for different ocean and wind conditions. The core materials involved surfboard shaping have evolved dramatically from the […]
Sunburns are extremely dangerous. Know what to do when the skin is excessively exposed to the sun. Learn how to soothe the pain and treat a sunburn. The sun is one of the best providers of vitamin D, but sometimes a sunburn occurs when we least expect, for example, in the first days of spring. […]
What is the definition of groundswell? Why do surfers prefer long-period waves? Learn why are groundswells are better for surfing. Swells form when the wind, at a certain speed, duration and direction, blows over a distance of water called the fetch. When the first waves form, they begin to travel faster or slower, depending on […]
Jay Moriarity is the first surfing legend of the 21st century. His life was abruptly cut short at the age of 22, but his legacy will inspire many generations to come. James Michael Moriarity was born on June 16, 1978, in Augusta, Georgia. His parents – Doug and Christy – moved to Santa Cruz, California, […]
On August 3, 2016, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) confirmed surfing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. All IOC members unanimously approved the proposal to include surfing, for the first time in its history, in the Olympic movement. Fernando Aguerre, president of the International Surfing Association (ISA), fulfilled the dream of Duke Kahanamoku, the father […]
You are what you eat and drink. There’s no other way to put it. So, if surfing is your top priority, protect yourself and don’t underestimate the power of unhealthy nutrients. Your body is your temple. If you allow it to absorb food and drinks that are not welcome, your physique will respond and, ultimately, […]
This is the story of how Steve Brown reconnected with surfing, lost an arm, and returned to the surf zone for an emotional comeback. This is his diary. This is a dream come true. In 1973, during a college overseas study trip to Indonesia, Steve had a chance to spend some time at Kuta Beach, […]
It’s a cult movie, and one of the first Hollywood productions to feature big wave surfing. The original “Point Break” was released in 1991, but it stood the test of time. For many movie fans, “Point Break” is one of the best surf-inspired flicks of all time. The film had it all; an irresistible blend […]
“On any day of the year, it’s summer somewhere in the world.” Everything about “The Endless Summer” is perfect. The motto, the movie title, the promotional posters, the soundtrack, the narration, and the waves. Here’s everything you need to know about Bruce Brown’s ultimate surfing movie. Can you imagine the world without DVDs, smartphones, internet […]