A postdoctoral researcher, who also happens to be a surfer, has identified the precise location on the wave where a surfer finds the greatest speed. According to the physics of a wave, the mathematical sweet spot is right inside the curl, in an area commonly known as the “pocket.” “I was surprised that I finally figured out how to do this because this is something that I’ve been thinking about for a long time,” notes Nick Pizzo, a physical oceanographer at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at UC San Diego.

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The wave’s sweet spot has been revealed

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