The mind of surfing

Fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear is healthy; panic is lethal. I have been surfing for the past six years now. I’m far from being a great surfer, but being 42 years old, I’m pretty happy with my decent level. Even if it sounds a bit cliché, surfing literally changed my life and […]

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 Fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear is healthy; panic is lethal. I have been surfing for the past six years now. I’m far from being a great surfer, but being 42 years old, I’m pretty happy with my decent level. Even if it sounds a bit cliché, surfing literally changed my life and completely shifted my priorities.

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The mind of surfing

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