Waves are an unstoppable force – at least until they break – but can they be classified into groups? Experts in fluid dynamics have the answer, and the interaction between the ocean floor and the beach is definitively decisive. Oceanography has all the answers for the classic surfing questions and enigmas. Science teaches surfers how ocean waves are formed, and why they break as they do. There are multiple variables at stake: sun, wind, energy, geographical obstacles, tides, and many other factors. Experienced surfers know how and when the waves are breaking perfectly. For avid wave hunters, perfect waves are waves that peel continuously from left to right, or vice-versa, rather than closing out abruptly.

Taken from:
The four types of breaking waves

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