The 10 commandments of the big wave surfer
Scary wipeouts, never-ending wave hold-downs, steep drops and inevitable bail-outs. Big wave surfing can be painful and, sometimes, your life is in serious danger. Big wave surfers have learned to prepare for the big occasions. Their daily job requires a perfect balance between physical health and mental preparation. You are not born a big wave rider. […]
Scary wipeouts, never-ending wave hold-downs, steep drops and inevitable bail-outs. Big wave surfing can be painful and, sometimes, your life is in serious danger. Big wave surfers have learned to prepare for the big occasions. Their daily job requires a perfect balance between physical health and mental preparation. You are not born a big wave rider. You may become a big wave rider. There’s too much at stake when you’re traveling down the wave face at 50 mph (80 km/h) and, in your back, a massive wall of water chases you at full throttle.
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The 10 commandments of the big wave surfer
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