If I were asked to select one single aspect of surfing which stands out above all others, I would undoubtedly select the permanent increase which the neophyte surfer can expect in health and fitness. The people responsible for President Kennedy’s exercise campaign could well consider a resolution to get everybody in this country to take up some form of surfing. Perhaps we could construct artificial wave producers for inland lakes, and we could subsidize paddleboard races on rivers and canals.

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Surfing: a reflection on health and the ideal lifestyle

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