Surfers want perfect waves, right here, right now. But, do they pay enough attention to the line-up before paddling out? As adrenaline junkies, surfers let their emotions flow freely. It’s pumping and there’s no time to lose. We put our wetsuit on in one minute and wax up our board in 30 seconds. The truth is we would have improved our surf session if we had spent a few minutes analyzing the ocean. And there so much to watch:

Excerpt from:
Observing the waves three minutes per foot

surfing, surfing today