Fear is a liberating drug, but if you’re a big wave surfer, it can kill you. Greg Long was invited to share is near-death experience in Cortes Bank, at the National Geographic Live series. “I do feel fear,” Greg Long confirms. The problem is that fear almost ruled his life, with real consequences. When the Californian fell in love with the Cortes Bank, located 100 miles off the coast of San Diego, he didn’t know what was about to happen. Cortes Bank, with its 360 degrees horizon line, swell lines traveling at 50 miles an hour, and speedy currents, called Long. Come ride the biggest wave of your life. Greg dove into the abyss and almost drowned.

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For Greg Long, fear is part of the thrill

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