Hurricane waves cause damages in the coastal regions. Can the usual swell forecast apply to storm surges? Is it safe to go surfing during the hurricane season? The first hurricane wave models developed in the 1950 were based on significant wave height and period. Later, during the 1990’s, computers enabled better ocean wind and wave prediction models, with new and advanced calculations. Recently, Chung-Sheng Wu, Arthur Taylor, Jye Chen and Wilson Shaffer wrote a paper about the complexity of high winds near the eye center of hurricanes, where measurements have a high degree of uncertainty. The National Weather Service/NOAA scientists confirmed that in the six major hurricanes of the U.S. East Coast and the Gulf of Mexico, the parametric model gives wave height predictions within 5% error compared with the measured buoy wave data.

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Hurricane waves, swell prediction and storm surf forecasting

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